When our fashionable client came to us for a custom ring in coral we balked because large sizes are almost impossible to find anymore. Smaller cabochons on the other hand are abundant and made this project exciting and original.
As you can see by the raw edges of the wood hoops there is considerable work yet to be done to have the finished hoop look like it does in the image below. The finishing steps are first to file the rough edges, followed by sanding with progressively finer sanding paper.
The design and construction of these opal pave’ earrings was time consuming but well worth the wait. Our customer came to us inspired because she found almost matching 7.5 ct round blue zircons. Their color was stunning and she wanted special earrings to show them off. This customer knew her jewelry, having collected pieces for a long time, and because of her appreciation for craft and design we enjoyed showing her some of our finer pieces.
Diamonds are a favorite item to pass on for new engagement rings, pendants, or earrings. Our customer had diamonds that she had inherited from her mother. Once upon a time they had been made into two necklaces, one for herself the other for her older sister. The necklaces were a classic design of diamonds in bezels with chain in between.
Our customer was very clear about what she wanted. She already owned chalcedony earrings and a ring, the only item missing by her estimation was the necklace. We really enjoy working with customers that love and wear their jewelry.
Part 1 of 2 of this blog was posted earlier and separate from this one because we had enough completed work that we didn’t want to bore or overwhelm. As I mentioned earlier, making custom engagement rings…
Creating custom engagement rings for David Gross is a pleasure and a huge challenge. For one he prefers platinum which is difficult to polish because it is a tough and strong metal. Secondly his stones are beautiful so a bit scary to set. The polish on his stones is superior and his knack for color reveals an exquisite array of gems.
Tanzanite, platinum and diamond engagement ring
Tanzanite is softer than his usual sapphires. I wish I had kept a photograph of the casting in pieces, because this is where we have the advantage to getting a superior finish. In other words finish the parts before soldering them together. David is fastidious about the finish of his rings. He has an eye not just for color but also detail. Should you want a sapphire we could get one for you from David, and make a memorable heirloom for you.
Side view of tanzanite, platinum and diamond engagement ring
Gregore is the CAD guy in the Gregore and Jennifer-Rabe team, though I am making an effort to master the tool. Now using tools well is the skill of the fine jeweler and CAD has become an essential one to create symmetry in designs. The artistry comes into play when your CAD guy can manipulate the design to look just a bit different than the next guys.
Sapphire, platinum and diamond engagement ring
We have perfected this particular design, in particular the diamond setting up the prongs. The diamonds are very small and challenging to deal with.
Sapphire, platinum and diamond engagement ring
This sapphire is longer than the one above it and a particularly bright blue. These images are not renders, they are the real deal, a photograph of the finished piece masterfully refined by a photoshop expert.
three quarter view of a sapphire, platinum and diamond engagement ring
front detail of pave’ set claws on the sapphire, platinum and diamond engagement ring
fuzzy photo of the shank
Here is an example of parts of a design being made and cast separately. For this ring in particular we needed to be able to pre-cut the pave’ because you can’t reach that area when the head and shank are together. We also had to set the diamonds after soldering, another challenge because of the tight corners. Diamonds can’t survive the heat required for platinum soldering.
fuzzy photo of the head resting on the shank
pear shaped sapphire, platinum and diamond engagement ring
three quarter view of a pear shaped sapphire, platinum and diamond engagement ring
I really like this ring, because it is studded with diamond pave’
front view of a pear shaped sapphire, platinum and diamond engagement ring
platinum casting of the above ring
front view of the platinum casting for the pear shaped sapphire ring
We kept this casting as a single unit because with files, wheels and our sanding strips , which we offer for sale and a handy video on its uses, we were confident about getting an excellent finish on the metal and reaching all the setting. It is a challenge to get a pear shaped stone looking nice in a ring. This one came out really nice.
Part 2 of 2 of this blog will continue next issue. Thanks for watching!
The ring bending plier is a very useful tool for giving a consistent arc to a bracelet or shank that needs to be sized or made by hand. The existing version available through jewelry tool distributors has a 12mm center pin and is 7, 1/2 inches long. Our custom made plier you see here is a mini version of it with a 6mm center pin and 4, 3/4 inches long. With such a tool the jeweler who seeks precision and speed in his work can consistently shape smaller arcs for bezels and other jewelry parts.
The jeweler has a unique set of skills. First they need to know how to design so that elements in the piece of jewelry are integrated into a cohesive whole. Learning to design is sorely under rated, by the way, because our lives are enriched by the attention to detail.
Engagement rings are one of our favorite items of jewelry to make. The occasion is so joyous and the anticipation and excitement is palpable. it is a real privilege to be involved in this occasion which will be remembered for lifetimes and spoken about often over the years.
This ring was interesting and fun to do for many reasons. First the individual was young, and it always impresses us when, at such a ripe age, they are already keen on finding a design for their engagement ring that resonates with them. Also, the individual was a lady who was designing for herself, often a smart decision because they are the one who is going to happily wear the engagement ring for a very long time.
Earrings in Ebony, 18 yellow gold, and diamonds
These gorgeous day or night wear earrings are hot off the CNC. They are made from top quality ebony, 18 karat yellow gold, and fine diamonds. The exceptional design has been developed after hours of drawing and rumination. The bats are mirrored, and each one having diamond eyes. This tesselation becomes an angel fish, the bat ears are also the angel fish tail. From the side and bottom you can see an offset, because otherwise you would not be able to distinguish the bat ears. Design and execution are a passion for Gregore and Jennifer-Rabe jewelers in Santa Barbara.
“we design, make jewelry and jewelry tools, consult, and teach. We do all of this from us for you “